Penrith to Ullswater: A charming weekend in the Lakes

A walk in the countryside is a cure for many ills. It’s great for mindfulness, letting you drift through your thoughts or helping them drift away entirely. Plus, if you’re heading to the Lakes (as we propose here), well, you’re in for a symphony of sights that will delight your eyes.

So, if you’re looking to take a trip from Penrith to Ullswater, read on for our recommended itinerary of what to do there.

Day one: Penrith

When it comes to a sally in the Lakes, Penrith is the perfect hub for your stay. Huddled in the Eden Valley (no, really), it’s the most beautiful of Cumbrian market towns. And, if you can pair a couple of days here with a trip to the Ullswater Valley, then you’re in for a mini break that will see your worries fade away like a Polaroid in reverse.

If you’re travelling light, then make sure you stretch your legs and have a look at Penrith Castle en route to the town. It’s directly across from Penrith train station. Before he became Richard III (and one of our best stage villains), Richard, Duke of Gloucester, was given the Lordship of Penrith. He spent quite a bit of time at the castle and even got the contractors in, adding a large banqueting hall, kitchens and other buildings.

Once you’re settled into your digs, have a browse of the quirky shops that are nestled around the town’s historical ginnels and alleys. As you weave through these winding narrow ways, bear in mind that there’s a reason for the snickets – during the 9th and 10th centuries, Penrith was the capital of Cumbria (a semi-independent state and part of Scotland). In 1295, the town was seized by Edward I of England. This news didn’t go down too well over the border, and for the next 15 years, Penrith was subject to numerous border skirmishes. So, they built the castle, and the planners opted for the narrow streets and passageways as defences against the border raids.

One great example is Rowcliffe Lane, an anonymous-looking alley now, but back in the day, this was the industrial heart of Penrith. Despite being just eight feet wide in places, in the 17th century, it was filled with tailors, coopers, saddlers, rope-makers and whitesmiths. Wagons and coaches would regularly squeeze up and down the passage (surely it was a one-way?!), and some signs of its industrial past are still evident today.

What to do in Penrith

There’s plenty to do in Penrith, not least grabbing a bite to eat; these are a few of our favourite places.

J J Graham

Graham's is right on Penrith's Market Square and the current building dates back to 1880. As well as their famed hampers, they also have an artisan bakery where the team bakes fresh bread, scones, pies and quiches every day.

The Lemon Tree

The Lemon Tree is a cute little café that’s perfect for a quick pit-stop or a full-on slap-up meal. If you’re going, try the lemon drizzle cake… go on, just a slice.

Angel Lane Chippie

Named the top fish and chip shop in the North West… well, you don’t need much more info than that, do you? Angel Lane Chippie is a family-owned chippy that also has a 35- seat restaurant upstairs if you fancy sitting in.

Rheged Discovery Centre

If you’re feeling adventurous, head to the Rheged Discovery Centre. There’s a cinema, exhibitions, talks and workshops, and even a soft play and outdoor activity centre for the kids.

Penrith Farmer’s Market

If you’re after some fantastic local produce, head to Penrith Farmer’s Market. It’s held on the third Tuesday of each month from March to December at 9.30am to 2.30pm.

Day two: Ullswater

Morning! OK, game on. Today, we’re going on a wander. It’s time to leave Penrith and head to the Ullswater Valley. Head to the bus station on Sandgate, just outside of Penrith town centre, and take the 508 from Stand 1 for a 40-minute ride to the Greenside Road Bus Shelter in Glenridding. If you aren’t sure where to get off, just ask the driver to give you a shout when you’re there. They’re a friendly lot here, so don’t be afraid. Once disembarked, you can spend the morning browsing the collection of shops, admiring the views and enjoying a brew in one of the local cafés or pubs.

From Glenridding centre, head to Glenridding Pier; it’s clearly signposted from the main road. From the pier, you can then get on a cruise on an Ullswater Steamer (timetable and fares here) to Aira Force Pier.

On arriving at Aira Force, it’s all about holding your nerve while you get to grips with the powerful force of beauty that nature can be. Aira Force refers to the area and also a waterfall set in woodland glades from the water’s edge to fell top. This is where words start to falter. The fact is, there’s beauty here that defies language.

Not just a beauty spot, you can also plan a splash about in a canoe, a hike on a nature trail or just a gentle stroll through the amazing greenery. Cares? Worries? They’ll become words uncoupled from meaning.

What to do in Ullswater

There’s no shortage of other things to do in Ullswater. With stunning views, hiking and history galore, this destination has you covered.

The Ullswater Way

For the more adventurous, the Ullswater Way is a 20-mile walking route that circles the lake. You don't have to do it all in one go – pick a section and enjoy the breathtaking views and fresh air.

Lowther Castle

Just a short drive from Ullswater, Lowther Castle is steeped in history and surrounded by beautiful gardens. It's perfect for a leisurely stroll and a bit of exploration.

Helvellyn

For the ultimate adventure, tackle Helvellyn: one of the Lake District's highest peaks. The views from the top are absolutely worth the effort, offering panoramic vistas of the entire region.

Glencoyne Bay

Need a break? Head to Glencoyne Bay for some peace and quiet. It's a lovely spot for a picnic or just to sit and admire the spectacular views across the water.

If you're inspired to head off on a weekend away,then book your train to the Lake District today. For more ideas on things to do in the North, head over to our blog, where we have great guides including the best tourist attractions in Manchester and the best street art in the North.